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第36章 A DAY IN THE DESERT

1.Our camels were waiting for us,but,leaving them to be loaded with our goods,we started off in advance,eager for our first walk in the desert.The fresh,pure air put new life into us,and we strode ahead in high spirits,although here and there the skeletons of camelsthat lay bleachingin the sun warned us that a desertjourney was not without its dangers.

2.At the distance of a mile or two we came to the Wells of Noses,where there are a number of springs and palm trees.We were in a glow of heat after our walk,and we found it very pleasant to rest under the shade and enjoy the coolness,as a gentle wind was stirring the palms above our heads.Parties generally camp here for the first night,and start fresh in the morning;but we had a day‘s work before us,and wenow sprang up as we saw our trainapproaching.Ithalted in front of us,and the camels knelt down in the soft,warm sand for us to mount;when they rose up,we were fairly launched on the desert.And now that we are really “at sea,”it is time to speak of the “ship”that carries us.To-day began my first experience of camel-riding,of which I had heard fearful descriptions,and which is to many the great terror of the desert.An English writer describes the sensation to be like that which one would experience in riding on a piano-stool that was mounted on the top of a hansom cab and driven over ploughed ground.Friends had told me that my back would be broken,and for the first hour or two I almost expected to hear the bones crack.Yet,strange to say,I lived through it,and after a month’s experience I found camel-riding not at all unpleasant.It is a long,swinging motion,and one only needs a little time to get accustomed to it.

3.I am prepared to take up the defence of the camel as a much-abused and long-suffering beast.True,I cannot boast of his looks or of his temper.He has not the beauty of the horse,with its smooth,round body,arched neck,and clean limbs.The only pretty feature of a camel is his ears,which,instead of being long likea donkey‘s,are small like those of a mouse.No,his general appearance is decidedly ungainly.

4.Nor is the camel an amiable beast.He is always

groaning and complaining,and has a growl like that ofa lion.But in spite of all defects of temper,he has somenotablevirtues.Though he has not the speed of thehorse,yet when it comes to the heavy work of carrying burdens,he leaves the horse far behind.Much as the camel growls when you are loading him,yet when the burden is placed upon him,he will rise up and carry it all day long.In this he is like some men,who are always grumbling,but who rise up under their loads and bear them manfully;while others,who are smoothand full of promises,manage to evade duty.

5.But as to riding this beast of burden,one might well hesitate.The first glance is not assuring.When you take your stand beside the huge,creature,whose hump towers quite above your head,and think of sealing such a height,it seems like climbing a hay-stack.But you have not to climb up to him-he kneels down to you;the only trouble is the mounting.

6.The camel is lying on the ground,his long legs all under him.The rider mounts,and the beast beginsto rise.First he rises to his fore knees,jerkingtherider sharply backward.Then his long hind legs beginto move under him,and as he rises at once tohis full height,the rider gets a violent jerk forward.Then the fore legs are set in motion again,and the camel rises from his knees to the proper level,with the rider in the saddle.

7.Once seated,the posture is very easy.Indeed one can ride in any posture-astride,as men ride,orsideways,as ladies ride-and with this advantage,that one can turn either way,to the right or to the left.Thefavourite posture of the Arabis with his legs crossedon the camel’s neck.To this one easily gets accustomed.I have sat thus for hours,with folded arms and foldedlegs-the picture of a philosopher .

8.It is a great advantage in riding a camel that he does not need to be guided.He has no bridle,butonly a halteraround his nose,by which he is led.Toeach animal there is a camel-driver,who,if need be,will go before and lead him.This I soon found to be unnecessary,since camels left to themselves will followeach other in Indian fileway.

9.When we dismounted to walk,I generally ob-served my driver looking wistfullyHe would not have presumedat the vacant seat.

10.Among my attendants was a boy,who sometimes had the honour of leading my camel.He was a bright little Arab,and never looked up to me with out a smile on his face.Perhaps he saw a smile on the face looking down upon him.I taught him one English word-“good;”and the manner in which he would repeat afterme “Good,good,good,”was the amusement of the whole party.How patiently he trudged along from day to day,always merry,with out a care-a creature of the sun,living in its beams.

11.Poor little Selim!where is he now?Watching the flock of black goats on the hill-side.Does he ever think of the Englishman?The Englishman sends him his blessing.May he too have goats and camels,and a black tent,and the fairest daughter of the tribe for his little wife;and may he find many an occasion to chucklewithin himself,“Good,good,good!”

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