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第11章 LAKE COMO

1.The lakes of the Cumbrian Mountains in England and of the Scottish Highlands are very beautiful,but perhaps those of the Alpine valleys are even more lovely.A splendid group of lakes lies on the southernside of the Alps,in the north of Italy.Nestling atthe very foot of the mountains are Maggiore,Como,Garda,and others,all famous for their enchanting scenery.Of all these,Como is the most renowned.Not only is it exceedingly beautiful,but the climate isdelightful,and invalidsfrom colder countries throngto its shores to enjoy its balmy,health-giving air.

2.It is not a very large lake,for it is only thirty miles long,and at no point more than two and a half miles broad.Indeed,throughout the greater part of its length it is much narrower.Its shape is curious-not unlike a two-pronged fork,with the handle turned to the north.The prongs are separated by the promontory of Bellagio.

3.People visiting this beautiful spot usually arrive first at the little town of Como,at the south-western end of the lake.Let us fancy ourselves going theretogether,and arriving in the lovely Como country at the close of a summer evening.It is moonlight,and we take a boat for a row upon the shining water.

4.Smoothly we glide over the placid surface,enjoying the cool air after the glowing heat of the day.The moon pours its bright light upon the lake,but the hills are dark with mysteriousThe whole scene is hushed in profoundshadows.

the only signs of man’s presence are the twinkling lights along the water‘s edge.The town of Como lies behind us-a swarm of such glow-worm beams;the hills and shadows gloom around;the lake is a sheet oftremuloussilver.

5.We hardly know how we can leave so much beauty;but we come ashore,and return to our hotel at last.Next morning we are up early,for the steamer starts for the head of the lake at eight o’clock,and we go on board a little before that hour.There is an awningspread over the after-partof the boat;but we do notfeel the need of it in the fresh morning air,and we go asnear to the bowas possible,that we may be the veryfirst to enjoy the famous beauty of the scene opening before us.

6.A few sails dot the water,and everywhere thereare small canopiedboats like the one we had lastnight.Now we reach a bend in the lake,and the roofs and towers of the city of Como pass from our view.With every curve of the ever-curving lake,other roofs and towers constantly succeed them,no less lovely andpicturesquethan they.We advance over charmingexpanses of water lying between lofty hills;and as the lake is narrow,the voyage is like sailing up a winding river.

7.Wherever the hills do not descend sheer into the water,a pretty town nestles on the brink;or,if not a town,then a villa,or even a cottage,if there is room for nothing more.Many little towns climb half-way up the heights;and the green hills,covered with vines and olives,are dotted with peasants‘houses to the verycrest.

8.The lake stretches far away among the Alps;and,as we draw near its upper end,the scenery becomes more stern and grand.The mountains grow loftier and loftier,and by-and-by they wear light wreaths of cloud and snow.Our voyage stops at the village of Colico.Itis now mid-day.A burning calm is in the atmosphere and on the broad valley-out of which a marshy streamoozesinto the lake-and the brilliant sunshine glitterson the snow-crowned hills.

9.Once more our steamer moves slowly out upon the lake,but it now bears us homewards to the town of Como.As the heat of the day yields to the coolness of the evening air,we watch with delight the shadows creeping higher and higher on the hills,while their tops are still bathed in the warm rays of the setting sun.We listen to the songs of the girls winding yellow silk on reels that hum through the open windows of the villagefactories.And now at last our golden day on Como’slake has come to an end;and as we step silently ashore,we feel as if we must have been dreaming about some region too beautiful for earth.

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